Changing your spark plugs

What I used was a spark plug ratchet, the type that hinges at the head, a 3" extension and a 1 1/2" one. Of course I used a spark plug socket too. I found it necessary for the tight spot plugs to put the socket down there, the 3" then the1.5" and put the ratchet on that. Kind of a pain but I couldn't think of any other way to do it. Getting the whole thing out when you're done is fun too. I used a magnet and some needle nose pliers to grab the parts. The ones on the passenger side don't leave much room. On the drivers side Take out the washer fluid bottle first before doing any plugs. It makes it easier even for the front one. Disconnect the wire from the pump and take off the 2 screws. It lifts right up but, undo the hose at the bottom and put your finger over the hole first. You can lay the tank with the hole up and it shouldn't leak out.
Just a few things I do when doing plugs in general. Change plugs on a cold motor. Twist the wires boot right and left a few times to loosen them. You gotta tug really hard on those suckers to get them off. Grab the boot and not the wire when doing this. I check the gap on the plugs to verify they are OK. I put dielectric (SP?) grease on the end of the plug (the end the wire goes on) as well as the ceramic. I also use some never seize on the threads. I've heard differing opinions on this but I haven't had problems doing it. That's my version anyone have a better way let me know. One last thing, always tighten the plug in there by hand first to be sure you haven't crossed the threads.
Even with most of the stories of quick and easy success that most of the members have had with changing plugs, I was still very nervous about changing my own. With some guts and encouragement form Peaty, I finally took the plunge and did it myself. I am glad that I did as well. It is as easy as they say. It did take well over an hour though. Of course I was taking pics, chasing down more batteries for more pics, going in for a coke, and changing the plug wires as well. I will show some basic pics here.
Anyway, Here is what you will need: 1- 8" extension 1- 5/8 spark plug socket (crucial) 1- Swivel head socket wrench note: You can of course use a straight wrench but in order to get around a couple of the angles you will either need a swivel socket extension or an additional 2-1/2" extension.
1- tube of anti-seize 1- tube of dialectric grease/silicon lube don't buy the little packets. Waste of money. Buy the tubes. The total for what you see below was like $6. In retrospect I wish I had gotten the bigger tube of silicon grease. Oh well.
Take out the windshield washer reservoir. I have been planning this and ran myself out of fluid to make things easier for me. I took out the 2 top screws,
and unhooked the pump's electrical connection. simply pinch the plug as will most automotive connections.
Since I was out of fluid I did not force the issue with the small rubber house that was attached to the tank. It was being a pain and could see that it would be a pain to get it re-attached, so I simply left it attached and laid it out of the way.
Once you get the reservoir out the way, it is fairly simple to get at the plug wires. Of course pull on the boot and not the wire. Pictured below is the forward most plug on the drivers side. The most challenging of all of them to get to. Without the wrench take the 8" extension and the plug socket and slid it into the hole. It was well designed, and has a tight tolerance. The socket slides onto the plug easily, gently push the socket onto the plug and twist until you feel it "lock".
Then attach your wrench and get it out of there. It came out pretty easily.
I had a problem getting the loom holder to latch back as you can see here, because the mag wires are so much thicker than the regular wires.
Just a quick example of the difference between the Mag wires and the oem wires.
Here is a comparison between the crapion plugs and the NGK plugs.
Here are the type of plugs I like to use in my RS. They are standard copper type. From what I gather copper is the best performance wise. Copper conducts better than plats. They just don't last as long as Platinum plugs. I change my plugs every spring. They only cost 1.50 each and it's not that hard. Platinum for longevity (I put some plats in my Outback) and Copper for performance!

 

(The ISDC cannot be held responsible for any modifications that adversely effect the warranty of your car.)