Owner guide · Buying

Buying a used WRX or STI

Buying a WRX or STI is exciting, but a bad one can cost more than the car. Most of the expensive problems can be spotted with a careful look, the right questions and a couple of tests. Take this checklist with you, and bring a friend who knows Subarus.

At a glance

Compression test

The best money you will spend before buying.

Timing belt

No dated invoice means budgeting for a belt straight away.

Ask the club

Many cars in Ireland are known to members. Ask in the forum.

Paperwork first

Service history: oil changes on time, and a dated invoice for the timing belt. No proof means budget for a belt straight away.
History check: finance, write-off and mileage records. For imports, the auction sheet or export certificate.
The chassis number on the car matches the paperwork, and the model code is what the seller says it is (see our chassis codes guide).
If the car is modified: who mapped it, on what fuel, and with what parts. Ask for the invoices.

Engine

Cold start: ask the seller not to warm the car up before you arrive. Listen for knocking or ticking, and watch for smoke.
A deep knock that changes with revs or load can mean worn big-end (rod) bearings: walk away or budget for an engine.
Blue smoke, oil use or a misfire on 2.5-litre EJ255/EJ257 engines can be cracked pistons (ringland failure), often from knock or a bad map.
A compression or leak-down test is the best money you will spend. All four cylinders should read close to each other.
Oil leaks from the cam covers and sump are common and usually cheap; coolant loss or overheating is more serious.
Check the oil level and condition. Very low or sludgy oil says a lot about the owner.

Turbo, boost and exhaust

Smooth, strong boost with no hesitation or misfire.
No blue smoke on boost, and no siren-like whine.
Ticking on cold start can be a cracked manifold or a leaking up-pipe joint.
A decat or loud exhaust may need changing back before the NCT.

Gearbox and drivetrain

Grinding going into 2nd or 3rd (very common on 5-speed WRXs) means worn synchros.
Jumping out of 5th on a classic is often the rear nut on the gearbox: a fixable fault.
Whine from the rear that changes with road speed is the diff.
Clunks when getting on and off the throttle point to driveshafts, diff mounts or worn bushes.
Check DCCD cars for warning lights and binding on tight, slow turns.
A slipping or very heavy clutch: budget for a clutch kit.

Body and rust

Rear strut tops and inner arches (especially classics): the most serious rust spot, and expensive to repair properly.
Rear wheel arches and sills.
Under the front and rear bumpers and around the radiator support.
Uneven panel gaps and wavy panels point to accident damage: check the chassis legs.
Imports from snowy parts of Japan can be rusty underneath despite low mileage.

Suspension, brakes and wheels

Worn bushes and tired dampers are normal at this age; budget for them.
Check the brakes do not pull, and look for seized caliper pistons or sliders.
All four tyres should match in size and brand.
Check that the wheels and brakes match the model (see our brakes and wheels guides).

Before you hand over money

Get a specialist inspection or, at the very least, a compression test.
Ask in the forum: many cars in Ireland are known to the club, and someone may know its history.
Budget for an immediate service, timing belt and fluids if the history is thin.

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