Any handy tradesmen on here sparks, heating, windows

DaveSleggy

DaveSleggy

Well-known member
So for my sins im looking at buying a house with herself. One of the houses is a old build 3 bedroom house about 55 years old. Cant give any other details on the house out but thats as much as i know.

Its old hasnt really been lived in for a few years. It needs to be fully rewired id imagine. All windows would need to be replaced with proper double glazing pvj jobbies. Also the boiler is leaking and the GFCH wont switch on.

So as long as a piece of string is, does anyone do these jobs or has anyone had these jobs done recently that could indicate even a ballpark for a few of these jobs.

Any help appreciated.
 
Use a lad for my heating and hes the best tradesman ive ever used
nothings hassle
price is great
genuine fella
if only all them where as sound as him if you get the idea
not sure if he covers all areas but give him a ring was only out with us last week when the gas pump failed
Dave - 087-2613772 tell him Colly with the Lurcher said to give you a bell :thumbsup:
 
Really depends on a few things if your looking a full rewire Which I doubt as its celing a down and walls striped but around 3/5k . Heating then if reusing all rads and new boiler then around 1000/3000 depending on work needed .

if your just looking to get things up and running then 4/5k will sort it. But if it's new heating and rewire then it could be anything as there's so much involved . Best of luck can give you a few numbers if your looking for them :thumbsup:
 
Done simular myself few years back .

Joe is pretty much on the money for wiring plumbing .

Windows could be another 3k plus depending on spec

It's a never ending job though .

Insulation is another thing to remember. No point in new heating and windows if the heat is pissing out through the roof
 
Yeah its still in the very early
stages but we're trying to prove up everything before we go any further. I would imagine the heating would be the only immediate thing. If I have a 5-10k figure in my head for that work. Also need to consider flooring the whole place, mainly laminate and a few rooms carpet.

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I'd say double that figure bud to do heating wiring insulation windows flooring decorating . Labour is getting dearer and dearer tradesmen are busy again .

It a lesson I learned doing mine . I ended up redoing stuff I tried to save on when I got into the house . Do it once and do it right
 
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Got word from the family today. Hopefully providing the bank plays ball we can afford the house. Delighted, for a little while I thought I'd have to sell the bug but it looks like we can swing it :)

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keith dublin said:
Is it best to insulate the roof or the attic floor or both
Click to expand...

A mate is a roofer -- he's very passionate on this topic. If the attic is not living space, he says insulate attic floor and not the roof (timbers). His feedback to us previously:

1) You need delineation between hot and cold area with no solid "pieces or connections" that can transfer heat / cold. Insulating attic floor (over the floor beams in height) will keep cold off the beams so cannot transmit cold down, or heat up. All heat stays trapped at the ceiling of your living space and doesn't transfer into the attic.

2) Timbers need to be free and allowed to "breathe" (fresh air circulating) - insulating them often leads to "sweating" condensation, which leads to rot in the timbers. Especially so in "older" houses with untreated roof timbers.

3) If you have down-lights installed in the ceiling of your living space then you need to build little wire cages over the spots to give at least 25-30cm space for the heat to collect and under no circumstances lay insulating materials onto the back of the spots as it will go on fire over time.

If they attic is living space:
Then of course you need to insulate roof timbers; however same theory applies that timbers need to breathe... so he says you need "spacers" on the roof timbers that allow cross flow of air between timbers. On those you can put slats length-wise in line with timbers. On those you can then place insulation materials and finishing surface - or you can get the two of those in single boards from the likes of Kingspan. As a result of the above you still have air circulating around the roof timbers and minimal to no transfer of heat / cold between your living area and cold "roof space". Do make sure you leave access to roof space vents under facia as they need to be cleaned every few years to make sure they don't get clogged with spiderwebs and other crap.
 
Wow thanks for the info man. All this is much appreciated lads :)

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I'm a plasterer but in conservation now so if ta need advice on insulation loads of ways to do it depending on age and way the house was built ie cavity walls what finish is on outside . You have to be careful with a older house as some people think that if its sealed insulated to the bollox that's great well unless your building a new house with your thermal barriers no vents then you will run into major problems dampness , Dryrot etc he's right bout attics as old houses need to breathe you would believe some of the rules and regulations on listed buildings that I work in


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If it's never been rewired then it's well overdue,quick poke around the attic for nasty joints and round black connection boxes would be well advised.
I'd advise to pay a good engineer to do a survey on a 55 year old house as there can be many problems.I have seen some crazy things in old houses over the years mostly done be enthusiastic DIY home owners[emoji27]


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