DCCD Clunking

P

pugtk

Sunday Drivers
Hi All,

The diff in my Type R is clunking/binding when taking tight corners/reversing etc.

When I scroll from open to locked it doesn't make any difference. The dash lights work perfectly

I'm running millers lsd oil in the diff and millers in the box.

It seemed fine when I first got the car, if maybe a very faint clunk. The car was stripped underneath and reassembled and since then I've had the problem.

I noticed the drivers side shaft was longer so I swapped it over, which made no difference and swapped it back, I later read that the driver side is longer anyway.

I did notice that not much force was need to push the shafts into the diff and the C-clips were missing, now if there in the diff itself I'm not sure, its something I may have to check this weekend. But would they make any difference?

There doesn't seem to be any loose wires at a glance.

I'm also wondering if there was an additive put into the old oil which was drained off.
 
I don’t have DCCD but I’ve heard of this problem before. Somebody said their axles were the problem. They had to change a wheel bearing. Maybe something is up with your ABS ring.
 
pugtk said:
Hi All,

The diff in my Type R is clunking/binding when taking tight corners/reversing etc.

When I scroll from open to locked it doesn't make any difference. The dash lights work perfectly

I'm running millers lsd oil in the diff and millers in the box.

It seemed fine when I first got the car, if maybe a very faint clunk. The car was stripped underneath and reassembled and since then I've had the problem.

I noticed the drivers side shaft was longer so I swapped it over, which made no difference and swapped it back, I later read that the driver side is longer anyway.

I did notice that not much force was need to push the shafts into the diff and the C-clips were missing, now if there in the diff itself I'm not sure, its something I may have to check this weekend. But would they make any difference?

There doesn't seem to be any loose wires at a glance.

I'm also wondering if there was an additive put into the old oil which was drained off.
Click to expand...

Hi if you are concerned about the diff making noise I would drain out oil to put mind at ease that it ain’t chewing up gears as any damage should show up in oil and on magnetic plug. I had bearings gone in rear tend to be noisy going straight and more noticeable when weight goes on the in turning it seems you have had a few problems since car was reassembled hope you get this sorted
 
Did ya doa resistance check on the roller switch to see if thats failed and lands the box in full lock all time
 
Gary sti said:
Hi if you are concerned about the diff making noise I would drain out oil to put mind at ease that it ain’t chewing up gears as any damage should show up in oil and on magnetic plug. I had bearings gone in rear tend to be noisy going straight and more noticeable when weight goes on the in turning it seems you have had a few problems since car was reassembled hope you get this sorted
Click to expand...

I was running fresh normal 75w90 oil for moving her about the yard at home, with no actual road mileage.The Fresh Millers LSD oil was put in last weekend. Along with a full gasket kit. No unusual wear inside.

The car was off the road for the past 10 years sitting also with a clutch gone. So building her up again after a what pretty much has been a reshell has lead to a few teething issues. Which have all been ironed out now. I must join up and post a thread in the members section actually.

The diff/dccd is the last on the list of mechanical issues. Once this is sorted I've to send some bolts to the zinc platers and send her off for paint.
 
Did you replace the drive shaft seals if so if you put the shaft covers back in the same place ?
 
scoobysub said:
Did you replace the drive shaft seals if so if you put the shaft covers back in the same place ?
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Yes seals were replaced and the covers were replaced correctly.

The noise was there before all the diff seals were replaced, along with the new oil.

I did however notice the on the driver side there was 3 shims behind the plate and on the passenger side there was two. I doubt this would make a difference though.
 
Not sure be honest maybe bring it to someone’s who’s familiar with gearbox’s . Is it the correct diff
 
Twincam.22 said:
Did ya doa resistance check on the roller switch to see if thats failed and lands the box in full lock all time
Click to expand...

I haven't but the switch operates the lights on the dash fine. Could it still be faulty?
 
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dis

disconnect the plug below ur intercooler for the dccd and try that to see ..
also ... on a type r the drive shafts are the same lrength letf to right .....
 
So finally got a chance to have a look at the car on the weekend gone by.

With the DCCD disconnected the clunking is still there in the rear diff.

The clunking also will stop if the clutch is engaged. So for example if your turning tight and the diff is clunking away and you hit the clutch, the clunking stops and the back end free's up

I'm going to order a set of c clips for the drives and go from there. The inner cv joints have a slight bit of movement there.

Does anyone have a part number for the c clips?

Also going to stick the go pro on underneath and go for a drive and see if there's any jumping about in the diff/shafts due to bushes
 
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Let me know how you get on something similar happening mine at the minute too.
 
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