Undersealing/Schultzing Car

B

bevan

Sunday Drivers
Haven't had the car on the road for a while, recently took it out of hibernation. With the winter coming in its not really the best time to start using it without proper sealant, so i'm looking for suggestions on products to use

I'm thinking of tackling it myself been quoted reasonable money to do the job (€100), but i'd like the piece of mind of doing it myself and knowing i wasnt just covering any surface rust to fester away and rot underneath. I have seen this before as stone chip and waxoil is a moisture trap

I have access to a pit but no ramp, i have decent axle stands also is this enough or am i best leave it to someone else to do because of access. I was thinking of giving it a good hot wash underneath and leaving to dry properly, then brushing and wire wheeling down any surface rust, using an etch primer and a good seam sealant maybe if i go back to bare metal enough and then layering up with something like tetrasol schultz or waxoil.

I've used waxoil before on past Corolla twincam's and it's good but very messy stuff, i was maybe going to do the pockets and into the sills and cavities i can get at looking for any other suggestions of methods or products. Also has anyone tried any of the hamerol coloured metal paints on top of sealer for a more factory look? Thinking of doing this in the arches but I don't want to spoil the originality of the car its never been painted underneath
 
I wouldn't be a fan of waxoyl or Shultz as they tend to separate from the metal with time and create water traps... And without you knowing the metal behind rots.
 
Thats my main concern, i dont know maybe i will red oxide it after etch primer as well any thoughts?
 
One of the lads on here in the projerct section is building a WRC Escort and knows his stuff with regards to undersealing. He advised me to use stuff called hidrotex sealer which is used as OEM sealer on certain makes of cars from new. It aint cheap but it acts as a sealer and stone chip... and can be painted over. There is a also an applicator gun required which is about 150-200 if I recall right.

You should only need to etch prime any bare metal... so if you find areas with surface rust... remove surface rust with nylon disc... then paint on a rust killer.... etch prime area... or use barcoat primer.... seam seal panel joins...and then prime again... and finally spray with hidrotex. If you're not happy with the plain grey finish you could then top coat it the same colour as your car.

All of this will involve a decent spray gun and compressor. :thumbsup:
 
Rust proofing and sealing your car against rust is a very big mine field. Not a lot people know how to do it correctly, including me. I have tried before with other cars but do you really know if you have done the job correctly. Schultzing is fine but your just covering up and it is grand if thats all you want to do. If you click on the link to this place in the UK you can see what is involved in doing it properly. I want to get mine done but I am going to hang off till next year and go over here an get it done. At least I will know it has been done properly and I can move onto the next project! Moisture is the killer so you have to be 100% sure that when you seal up that it is gone.

http://www.jrclassics.co.uk/procedure.html

Its somethimg worth considering if you are going to hang on to your car long term.

Good luck :thumbsup: ,

Steve.
 
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