RCM air filter

DaveSleggy

DaveSleggy

Well-known member
So after weeks of searching i managed to find a mint used Genuine RCM induction with red trumpet over in the uk. Currently winging its way over to me.


Also have tyres sorted and fitted, RCM slam panel, bolt kit and spoiler risers(hopefully) coming this weekend too.

So the bug is coming along nicely.

Just wondering, the car needs to be mapped for irish muck fuel anyway but should i leave the induction kit off until i get it mapped or is it plug and play?

I also have a 3 port boost solenoid, is there any real point in me fitting it if im not planning on running crazy power, or should i sell it to offset some of my recent purchases?
 
Leave the induction kit off until you map it. Probably don't need the 3 port but I'd fit it if I was you, but again wait till you're mapping it.
 
I think you will need to be mapped for the trumpet

some info there from wrxtuners on the solenoids that may help in your decision


Factory boost control relies on a flimsy, inefficient solenoid. When boost levels are increased over stock, the factory actuators fail to properly meter boost. The resulting spikes, dips and erratic response can damage your engine and spoil the performance gains. An upgraded electronic boost control solenoid allows a much lower waste gate duty cycle to produce higher boost levels giving tuners better control and decreasing spool time. Now lets discuss why.

Stock 2-Port Operation
The stock solenoid is part of the stock bleed-based boost control system. When the solenoid is off (closed), pressurized air from the compressor is fed straight into the wastegate control. Any increase in compressor pressure beyond the rated pressure of the wastegate control results in the wastegate being opened, preventing buildup of boost.
When energized (opened), air is allowed to bleed off the compressor-to-wastegate line by way of a “T” connector. This prevents the wastegate from seeing the full compressor pressure, allowing boost to build. Most model years include a restrictor pill in the hose connecting the compressor to the “T” which meters the air for the stock ECU calibration.
While the stock system operates adequately, it can lead to problems at higher-than-stock boost levels. Since the bleed system is sized for the stock turbo at stock boost levels, it is typically incapable of correctly metering air at higher boost, allowing the wastegate to see pressure and open before intended.
Additionally, since the wastegate is never completely cut off from seeing compressor pressure, it can open at low boost levels and inhibit boost buildup. Ideally, the wastegate should remain entirely closed for fastest boost buildup (as all exhaust is then forced through the turbine).

Aftermarket 3-Port Operation
A 3-port solenoid does away with the bleed-based system, explicitly shunting air from the compressor to the wastegate, or compressor to vent (or back into the intake post-MAF, OEM-style). Drawbacks of the bleed-based system are thus eliminated, with the wastegate seeing literally no pressure when the solenoid is energized, to seeing all of the compressor pressure when thesolenoid is de-energized.
Now able to totally control the opening and closing of the wastegate, the ECU is able to control boost with greater precision and reduced response time.

This modification will make your current boost map OBSOLETE. You MUST retune boost. If you have no way to tune your boost control tables, you should NOT do this mod.

There are a lot of options out there. Some are a little easier to install than others, but all perform the same function. I have done some research in the solenoids available. If you do a little looking around you can find reviews for each of them:

GM 3 Port ~$65:
GM boost solenoid for Typhoon, GM Part # 1997152($48.89) Pigtails, GM Part # 12102747($15.40)
Full DIY: GM solenoid install (56k warning) - NASIOC
Alternately: ACDELCO solenoid part # 214474 and ACDELCO ABS modulator pigtale part # PT374

Prodrive BCS ~$125:
https://www.stiperformanceparts.com/...productid=2318

Perrin 3 Port ~$100:
Perrin Performance - Boost Control Solenoid

IxizConcept IxizEBCS ~$68:
IxizEBCS

Grainger 3 Port ~$30:
Pneumatics & Hydraulics > Valves > Solenoid Air Control Valves > Valve,Solenoid,1/8 In : Grainger Industrial Supply

Grainger 4 Port (for EWG) ~$57:
Pneumatics & Hydraulics > Valves > Solenoid Air Control Valves > Valve,Solenoid,1/8 In : Grainger Industrial Supply
NASIOC - View Single Post - Full DIY: GM solenoid install (56k warning)

GrimmSpeed 3 Port ~$110:
GrimmSpeed

MAC 3 Port ~$26:
MAC valve part # 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA

I took info from various sources including the installation instructions from GrimmSpeed and Perrin, and put it together for this article. I put it together because I couldn't find a good article that told why the boost control solenoid was a good modification.

**** This guide is my made up of my own opinions and the knowledge that I have gained in the past 3 years of WRX ownership and modification. I take no responsibility for damages or legal issues from following this guide. The decision and responsibility to proceed is yours and yours alone.****

Source http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f70/aftermarket-boost-control-solenoids-25587/
 
scoobycolm said:
I think you will need to be mapped for the trumpet

some info there from wrxtuners on the solenoids that may help in your decision


Factory boost control relies on a flimsy, inefficient solenoid. When boost levels are increased over stock, the factory actuators fail to properly meter boost. The resulting spikes, dips and erratic response can damage your engine and spoil the performance gains. An upgraded electronic boost control solenoid allows a much lower waste gate duty cycle to produce higher boost levels giving tuners better control and decreasing spool time. Now lets discuss why.

Stock 2-Port Operation
The stock solenoid is part of the stock bleed-based boost control system. When the solenoid is off (closed), pressurized air from the compressor is fed straight into the wastegate control. Any increase in compressor pressure beyond the rated pressure of the wastegate control results in the wastegate being opened, preventing buildup of boost.
When energized (opened), air is allowed to bleed off the compressor-to-wastegate line by way of a “T” connector. This prevents the wastegate from seeing the full compressor pressure, allowing boost to build. Most model years include a restrictor pill in the hose connecting the compressor to the “T” which meters the air for the stock ECU calibration.
While the stock system operates adequately, it can lead to problems at higher-than-stock boost levels. Since the bleed system is sized for the stock turbo at stock boost levels, it is typically incapable of correctly metering air at higher boost, allowing the wastegate to see pressure and open before intended.
Additionally, since the wastegate is never completely cut off from seeing compressor pressure, it can open at low boost levels and inhibit boost buildup. Ideally, the wastegate should remain entirely closed for fastest boost buildup (as all exhaust is then forced through the turbine).

Aftermarket 3-Port Operation
A 3-port solenoid does away with the bleed-based system, explicitly shunting air from the compressor to the wastegate, or compressor to vent (or back into the intake post-MAF, OEM-style). Drawbacks of the bleed-based system are thus eliminated, with the wastegate seeing literally no pressure when the solenoid is energized, to seeing all of the compressor pressure when thesolenoid is de-energized.
Now able to totally control the opening and closing of the wastegate, the ECU is able to control boost with greater precision and reduced response time.

This modification will make your current boost map OBSOLETE. You MUST retune boost. If you have no way to tune your boost control tables, you should NOT do this mod.

There are a lot of options out there. Some are a little easier to install than others, but all perform the same function. I have done some research in the solenoids available. If you do a little looking around you can find reviews for each of them:

GM 3 Port ~$65:
GM boost solenoid for Typhoon, GM Part # 1997152($48.89) Pigtails, GM Part # 12102747($15.40)
Full DIY: GM solenoid install (56k warning) - NASIOC
Alternately: ACDELCO solenoid part # 214474 and ACDELCO ABS modulator pigtale part # PT374

Prodrive BCS ~$125:
https://www.stiperformanceparts.com/...productid=2318

Perrin 3 Port ~$100:
Perrin Performance - Boost Control Solenoid

IxizConcept IxizEBCS ~$68:
IxizEBCS

Grainger 3 Port ~$30:
Pneumatics & Hydraulics > Valves > Solenoid Air Control Valves > Valve,Solenoid,1/8 In : Grainger Industrial Supply

Grainger 4 Port (for EWG) ~$57:
Pneumatics & Hydraulics > Valves > Solenoid Air Control Valves > Valve,Solenoid,1/8 In : Grainger Industrial Supply
NASIOC - View Single Post - Full DIY: GM solenoid install (56k warning)

GrimmSpeed 3 Port ~$110:
GrimmSpeed

MAC 3 Port ~$26:
MAC valve part # 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA

I took info from various sources including the installation instructions from GrimmSpeed and Perrin, and put it together for this article. I put it together because I couldn't find a good article that told why the boost control solenoid was a good modification.

**** This guide is my made up of my own opinions and the knowledge that I have gained in the past 3 years of WRX ownership and modification. I take no responsibility for damages or legal issues from following this guide. The decision and responsibility to proceed is yours and yours alone.****

Source http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f70/aftermarket-boost-control-solenoids-25587/
Click to expand...
Good post colm [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks colm some great info there, think il fit the 3 port just to have it and then iv the option to go above stock maybe 1.3 or 1.4 bar safely.

Il leave the induction kit off too, met ciaran today to get some booster, lovely guy great knowledge so gonna hold off fitting the bits until i get a map done.
 
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