Options ahead of mapping

Anto_Holmes

Anto_Holmes

Well-known member
ISDC Club Member
Bit if a long one but just lining up what i need. So I was talking with the previous owner of the bug (he messaged after seeing it on a run and regretted selling 😂). I asked however if the car was mapped for Irish fuel to which he said not in his ownership. So I doubt it has been. I have been adding octane booster as an in case thing and haven't been pushing it's limits much. But next in the agenda is mapping.

I want to get stuff fully sorted though ahead of it. I want to get a good induction kit and will probably look out for a prodrive cat for it.

Question is, what is best in terms of induction kit? Brand wise and that. Are KN good or is the wet filter a problem for the MAF sensor?

I don't want to go full decat just because of the hassle come NCT time. If I can't get prodrive when the time comes, has anyone had any issues emissions wise with 200 cell?

Is a recirculation valve or a dump valve better. I like the noise off the dump but may even consider a different one than I have if others sound better.

I'm not going for major power gains. Just safety and possibly get to the 350bhp mark if I could. I also dont mind the route of booster if its better/safer. Is there anything else I should look out for while I'm at it or anything I should change also ahead of mapping? Looking for a one and done job.
 
Imo stay with a panel filter rather than induction kit and regards dump valve is leave standard as unless you want sound but I didn't see the pint of it. Service wise use pfr7b plugs and fit a new neutral position switch in the box. Everything else is common service items
 
What's the cat set up now Anthony..

If what's in it is working nct emmisions time I'd leave it as is less arsing about I pondered all this a while back going from decat back to oem cats ect..I was considering getting a Prodrive second hand cat to but reality is there old now so a risk alot of money to map it them back in the horrors at nct time.

I'd just get it service as above and give it to ap dv and intake not required unless want the extra drama ..


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At the moment. There's a dump valve in it, I'm not certain on the brand. But it wasn't mapped for that either so MAF isn't realising the loss in air from it so thinking getting a good recirculation valve if there a better in the long run.

As for induction kit, primarily I want to change to it with a shield box like the COBB one for example so I can get more induction and turbo noise. Secondly for the added gains less restriction in the air flow.

As for cat, it's standard at the moment so I'm guessing 600 cell but from what I can make out without removing heat shielding, there is no midpipe after the cat. So it's turbo - downpipe through cat - centre pipe - back box. If a prodrive cat isn't good with age or available at the time, I can get a good one from Group D in Buttevant. But also, thinking is reduce restriction on airflow for some added gains but mostly to reduce pressure. In my mind full just make the engine a bit safer again.

Cheers for the heads up on sparks and neutral position switch, noted for those.
 
Anto_Holmes said:
At the moment. There's a dump valve in it, I'm not certain on the brand. But it wasn't mapped for that either so MAF isn't realising the loss in air from it so thinking getting a good recirculation valve if there a better in the long run.

As for induction kit, primarily I want to change to it with a shield box like the COBB one for example so I can get more induction and turbo noise. Secondly for the added gains less restriction in the air flow.

As for cat, it's standard at the moment so I'm guessing 600 cell but from what I can make out without removing heat shielding, there is no midpipe after the cat. So it's turbo - downpipe through cat - centre pipe - back box. If a prodrive cat isn't good with age or available at the time, I can get a good one from Group D in Buttevant. But also, thinking is reduce restriction on airflow for some added gains but mostly to reduce pressure. In my mind full just make the engine a bit safer again.

Cheers for the heads up on sparks and neutral position switch, noted for those.
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The Prodrive sports cats are as old as the OEM Subaru cats, but mine still works.. No issues there.
Hayward & Scott do a nice 200 cel sports cat downpipe but it's pricey enough.
I wouldn't worry about the heat shielding around an induction kit. It's being pulled through a turbo anyway and cooked to about a million degrees in that, so not gonna make a whole lot of difference. Intercooler upgrades make cooler air on a turbo 👍
Are the ones Group D sell, the cats, are they a good brand? I'd say those universal ones, if leaving in place, wouldn't last so long I'd imagine...

I do agree with the whole less restrictive pathways.. Make it as efficient as possible. Either panel filter, or induction kit, silicone turbo inlet be a good shout, decent up pipe, sports cat, good cat back exhaust.
I'm looking at the Harvey up pipes and maybe even an upgraded manifold too.

3 port boost control solenoid be a good shout too.
 
My first port of call would be who ever is mapping it for a chat as they'll tell you what there expectations are with X or Y mods/work done

have to consider are you going to use the oem ecu and just remap with no added bits or go full stand alone for anti lag and all the nice bits to have but not essential either

If buying a new cat or exhaust be sure to allow drive time and heat cycles for the fibres to burn off any excess residues and settle in this supposedly has an effect as its the warning i got about my kakimoto going on, another thing to consider with downpipes/cat is to use heatwrap. keeping the heat in the downpipe helps get the cat hotter/operate better in terms of emissions testing.

I'll have a standard center section with 2 oem cats in it on vbands in a few weeks feel free to borrow if you're thinking about going that route as well
 
Just a fyi very few aftermarket oem cats pass I tried a few most are not good..

Either on magin or won't pass consistently

hence going to oem
 
3 port solenoid a good shout. I'll add that in. My idea on the air box is to keep the air coming in through the oem snorkel and just keep it fresh as opposed to having it mix with the hot air around the engine just because it's denser. But again, considering all options on best route forward. I'm not for going as far as upgrading manifolds and that, a silicone inlet will also go in and may also consider a good up pipe.

Antilag and other fun bits aren't really on my radar, so I may just piggyback to OEM ECU. Will do heat cycling if I go sports cat too and will heat shield as well. I currently have a 2.5 hayward and Scott centre pipe to the S201 back box. I'm happy enough with that.

If I go sports cat I will go 200 cell to help the NCT but still open to options. If I had a lift, I'd decat it.

Only other thing is blow off vs recirculation. I like the noise of the blow off but what is better.

Will also look at gauges too. Appreciate the feedback but keep it coming, just trying to get a good understanding on all options.
 
3 port makes it easier for AP to map it.
A good high flow panel filter in standard airbox is good for 400+ hp, induction kit would only be for noise at that power level.
Change the neutral switch on the gearbox.
Change the MAF as they fail slowly, and they fail lean. Best getting an new OEM before it goes in.
Harvey trick (ICP, RCM) or standard STI uppipe are good for that power. The eBay up pipes are a waste of time because they are a bigger diameter so all they do is hurt spool time. STI uppipe are catless anyway.
As for BOV vs diverter, its really comes down to if you want the BOV noise or not. You cant really map for the air its venting thats mostly made up internet logic. Diverter is preferred because its OEM, but its minimal difference (if any) vs a BOV.
In Ireland the open vs closed intakes doesn't matter too much, especially for a road car. It comes down to if you want more intake noise, or maximise the cold air. Both will have more noise over a standard intake.

NF Octane booster is best, the car will love it. But it will kill plugs faster, and you have to deal with adding it to the tank every fill up. It will making things like your inside of the exhaust side of turbo, exhaust, plugs, etc. go orange in colour.

Id be surprised if a Prodrive cat failed, as long as you get a known good one. It'd be more free flowing over an OEM cat.
 
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subiescooby said:
3 port makes it easier for AP to map it.
A good high flow panel filter in standard airbox is good for 400+ hp, induction kit would only be for noise at that power level.
Change the neutral switch on the gearbox.
Change the MAF as they fail slowly, and they fail lean. Best getting an new OEM before it goes in.
Harvey trick (ICP, RCM) or standard STI uppipe are good for that power. The eBay up pipes are a waste of time because they are a bigger diameter so all they do is hurt spool time. STI cats are catless anyway.
As for BOV vs diverter, its really comes down to if you want the BOV noise or not. You cant really map for the air its venting thats mostly made up internet logic. Diverter is preferred because its OEM, but its minimal difference (if any) vs a BOV.
In Ireland the open vs closed intakes doesn't matter too much, especially for a road car. It comes down to if you want more intake noise, or maximise the cold air. Both will have more noise over a standard intake.

NF Octane booster is best, the car will love it. But it will kill plugs faster, and you have to deal with adding it to the tank every fill up. It will making things like your inside of the exhaust side of turbo, exhaust, plugs, etc. go orange in colour.

Id be surprised if a Prodrive cat failed, as long as you get a known good one. It'd be more free flowing over an OEM cat.
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Mighty info there on different bits. I have a high flow RCM filter in it but I am mostly after the noise in that area. The father in laws cosworth is induction and the sound is just 🤤🤤🤤. Didn't know that about the MAF sensor. I do sometime in cold weather get an engine light and an increase in revs slightly but it goes away again very quickly. Haven't plugged it in yet with the light on but I reckon it's MAF sensor. Will look at that also. I had looked at 3 port solenoid just for that added ease for mapping.

I had a look at the bov in it and it's a turbosmart one. Not certain if the brand is good or not but I don't mind changing if needed to another brand or going recirc if they were better.

I use octane boost at the moment, just not NF. But I don't mind using it. I intend on changing the sparks every year anyway just as a piece of mind thing. Probably unnecessary but they're not too expensive and something I want to learn to do myself.

I will ask AP also about standard cat vs sports cat when it comes to booking in for his input. I could keep the standard one in place too.
 
3 port not needed as said, but does make boost control and mapping much easier and smoother. No horse power gain from it.

I had the RCM induction kit.
I messaged Ollie Clark enquiring about a heat shield. The man himself said it, not needed. Myth on a turbo car. Intake air is being cooked anyway so they don't make any heat shields, upgrade the intercooler if you want cooler air he said. From the horses mouth.. Do with that as you may lol

Turbosmart a very good brand. Could go half way on the dial and have it happy for both.
Without mapping, it just means when it's blowing off you'll be rich for that split second.


At the end of the day man, if you want something... Get it lol
Fuckit, you'll always have conflicting opinions on like BOV or no BOV, sports cat or OEM, etc etc
If you want it, get it 👍 it's your car, please no one else lol
 
Yeah 3 port is the way just to make it easier for AP.

Yeah I get that to be fair. We're probably too cold a climate here to be of effect, most of the videos I watch on YouTube are Americans so that does end up skewing mindsets. We have no heat shield in the Celica for example.

It is definitely rich sometimes on gear change, I'd hear the odd pop or bang out the back sometimes. Could end up keeping it too, I didn't know before if they were good.

I'll do that for sure, this is more a fact finding dig to learn about different options so i can figure out the best path forward. Very much appreciate all the feedback so far.
 
it will stay running rich for a split second when the BOV vents, you cant map for it because its not measured air. You can tweak assumptions to be a bit better than the standard map, but its still unmeasured air that cant be accounted for.
In saying that, theres absolutely no problem with that. Its only for a split second, and not rich enough to cause problems.
 
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