2 MAFS in 2 months

[quote author=KENC link=topic=14354.msg177729#msg177729 date=1239750037]
I always thought that certain filters that contain a certain oil are causes of fukn up mafs, it cant be silencer, if it was evey induction kit car would have same problem, i reckon its your filter
[/quote]

His filter is a dry filter Ken

[quote author=Matt link=topic=14354.msg177579#msg177579 date=1239737072]
Ive an old spare maf thats 90% here so ok till i get a new one but thanks anyway Johnathan :thumbsup:
Yeah puzzled about it myself as the pipercross filter has no oil either.
You can actually see in the maf where it broke, same as the last one. Like a tiny foil wire broke. I had the window open a bit this time and actually heard it ping from the direction of the airbox at the same time it gave a slight hesitation :angry1:
[/quote]
 
Matt when you removed the intake silencer ( by this I presume you mean the intake elbow in the front drivers side win did you replace it with something like the GP Moto intake elbow silencer delete? I did this on my WRX and Andy Forrest said the intake volume was way up and it was a great mod and very effective for very little cash (about $50.00!).

I used a K&N panel filter with it and never had a problem. I even cleaned the filter twice with the K&N cleaning kit and still not MAF failure but I was very careful to ensure it was fully dry before spraying on the smallest amount of oil possible.
 
Yeah the pipercross filter is a dry filter. Had the filter in 1 year with no problems until i removed the silencer(the piece in the drivers wing).
After i removed it(including the rubber seal which is attatched to the airbox with 3 white plastic screws) i put a rubber flange off an old induction kit pipe in the circular hole in the airbox where it meets the inner wing in the engine bay.
This protrudes about an inch into the wing and gives a seal with the airbox, preventing hot air from the engine bay getting into the intake.
I ordered a new maf today which will be in tomorrow so now im stuck thinking if i should trust this filter or spend more money getting an Apexi or K&N or similar :dontknow:
The last thing i want is another maf failure in a months time.
Maybe it was just a fluke that 2 mafs went so close to each other.
Thanks again for the help :thumbsup:

This is my current air filter http://www.scoobyparts.com/acatalog/PIPERCROSS_MX_FOAM_PERFORMANCE_PANEL_FILTER.html
 
I have that panel filter too, i fitted it to the car about 6 months now and the revs were up and down when the car was running, i think it must have been the maf sensor because when i got it mapped with the simtek ecu the revs were fine again
 
Ok thanks mark. Sounds more and more likely its the filter causing my problem. Ill try get another different one tomorrow before i put the new maf in.
 
[quote author=Matt link=topic=14354.msg178061#msg178061 date=1239830495]
Ok thanks mark. Sounds more and more likely its the filter causing my problem. Ill try get another different one tomorrow before i put the new maf in.
[/quote]

I might be wrong, get it checked out first by a mechanic, it could be something else :thumbsup:

if it is the maf surely its covered under warranty when its brand new, its worth going back to where you got it they might get you a new one under warranty
 
Could it be a mapping Issue. The car drawing to much air and the vacum distroying the MAF.

Just an un-educated Thought.
 
its not a wiring problem if it was the fault would be there all the time, ive just removed a faulty maf from wjc"s 97 type r and it had the silencer removed i dont think it should be removed its there for a reason, sinced fitting a new maf and induction kit the car is running like a dream
 
Matt if you have no connection like an intake elbow to replace the silencer box the air coming into the wing may actually be creating a vacuum at certain speeds as the air swirls around uncontrolled in the wing. I would try fitting the GP Moto Intake Elbow as it replaces the silencer and smooths and speeds up the airflow to the airbox. It's a very cheap and worthwhile mod and looks like an OEM part.

The Silencer in the wing is supposed to catch any water that might get sucked in but as the intake itself is so high you'd want to be driving through a river for this to happen. The Silencer has a hole in the bottom to let any water that happens to get in drain out but it's largely useless unless you plan driving through a river any time soon.

http://www.upscaleautomotive.com/p-...er-delete-elbow-for-02-07-subaru-wrx-sti.aspx
 
Went into lusk motor factors today to collect the new maf but it wont be there till tomorrow.
While i was there i asked about warrenty and she made a phone call and the maf is covered for 12months and they said they've had problems with this maf recently.
So its now hard to know is it the filter, the intake silencer removal or just a faulty maf :dontknow:
Ill look into one of those elbows alright but i would have thought a complete silencer delete would be essentially the same as fitting an induction kit :dontknow:
 
[quote author=Matt link=topic=14354.msg178348#msg178348 date=1239905910]
Went into lusk motor factors today to collect the new maf but it wont be there till tomorrow.
While i was there i asked about warrenty and she made a phone call and the maf is covered for 12months and they said they've had problems with this maf recently.
So its now hard to know is it the filter, the intake silencer removal or just a faulty maf :dontknow:
Ill look into one of those elbows alright but i would have thought a complete silencer delete would be essentially the same as fitting an induction kit :dontknow:
[/quote]

im glad the maf is covered under warranty, if they said they had problems with them maybe your one was faulty too
 
I hope so Mark.
Ill pick the new Maf up tomorrow and maybe change to an Apexi panel filter if ive time to make it to Couture Auto after work.
Rather than order that elbow, it looks fairly simple to cut and construct a D.I.Y one from the original silencer.
Although there's no going back once the hacksaw comes out :tongue:
 
[quote author=Matt link=topic=14354.msg178393#msg178393 date=1239917095]
I hope so Mark.
Ill pick the new Maf up tomorrow and maybe change to an Apexi panel filter if ive time to make it to Couture Auto after work.
Rather than order that elbow, it looks fairly simple to cut and construct a D.I.Y one from the original silencer.
Although there's no going back once the hacksaw comes out :tongue:
[/quote]

Glad its covered under warranty too Matt :thumbsup:

I use an Apexi cone filter that i bought in Couture and I've also cut up my silencer, with an induction pipe off it run to the front bumper. I have no problems at all :thumbsup:

Best of luck with the new one man :pray:
 
:thumbsup: Scoobymaniac
I think it seems the safest route to take alright.
A bit of Sun tomorrow and an early finish from work and ill be grand :thumbsup:
 
Got the new Maf today under warrenty free of charge :multijump:
Fitted it and also put the intake silencer back in.
Car ran perfectly but noticably down on Torque with much more turbo lag. Pretty much making the downpipe and remap i just got feel like a waste of money.
As the car was mapped with the silencer removed this probably makes sense due to a more restricted air flow with the silencer back in place.
Anyway, ive removed the silencer again and will take a spin later to see how i get on and am going to pick up a new panel filter tomorrow just to be safe and hope it was just a faulty Maf. :thumbsup:
 
You will have to clear the faults so the ECU is reset, then you need to drive it very easy for about 30mins or so while the car relearns its knock levels, the easier you drive it, the more power the engine will put out.

Dunno about the type-r but you can do this by connecting the green and black connectors under the dash on my B4. Wait until the check engine light flashes on and off constantly, then unplug tem and take the 30min drive

Happened to me recently too :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Sweetcakes(Rob isnt it?)
I did the ecu reset by disconnecting the negative on the battery for a while but didnt know about takin it easy for 30min driving.
Thanks for the advice ill do that later on :thumbsup:
 
[quote author=Sweetcakes link=topic=14354.msg178742#msg178742 date=1240008148]
You will have to clear the faults so the ECU is reset, then you need to drive it very easy for about 30mins or so while the car relearns its knock levels, the easier you drive it, the more power the engine will put out.

Dunno about the type-r but you can do this by connecting the green and black connectors under the dash on my B4. Wait until the check engine light flashes on and off constantly, then unplug tem and take the 30min drive

Happened to me recently too :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
[/quote]

After you have reset the ECU, could you leave it to idle for 30 mins rather than drive???
 
Good idea mark. Ill do that when i get home. Just picked up an apexi panel filter from couture auto there so ill see how i get on.
 
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