best induction kit?

[quote author=davelegacy link=topic=25058.msg296681#msg296681 date=1279314804]
K&N air filters do not cause maf failure. The picture below is RCM Gobstopper engine bay. No cold air feed kit. No engine/induction seperator metal housing etc, no big alloy rads etc...

And this car does handling course quite well as most of you know. Once car is moving air temps come back into acceptable level. No need for all above.

rcm.jpg

[/quote]

Thats the cold air feed there under the filter there just to the left, you can see the hole.. The air is feed comes through there from behind the bumper..
 
there is no massive pipework as you can see. A factory resonator box would acheive requirements on fast/road track vehicle along with normal heat dispersion whilst moving adequately.
 
[quote author=davelegacy link=topic=25058.msg296718#msg296718 date=1279321000]
there is no massive pipework as you can see. A factory resonator box would acheive requirements on fast/road track vehicle along with normal heat dispersion whilst moving adequately.
[/quote]

No, there's no massive pipework, they cut out the inner wing and put that section in with the pipe running down to behind the bumper.. Seen it on a couple of cars now.. Its an excellent cold air feed setup but probably wouldnt pass legally on a road car.. At the speed that thing travels around the track at, there would be enough airflow to void any heat soak..

Not sure exactly what you're saying about the resonator there? You mean leave the standard airbox and remove the resonator?
 
No other way round as is sufficient for any car running without fmic. As in factory resonator feeds air into the standard airbox so be good enough to feed an induction kit in same area with having to put mad homemade pipework everywhere. Mick Spec C’s S204 running in engine bay induction without a resonator box as running with APS FMIC and has never had a question mark of undesired air flow. My point is I believe people on isdc sometimes focus on wrong areas sometimes where no need. I see this with people posting in every second post about wide wheels and negitive camber etc etc..

Reality is that not ideal for a road car nor joined with un-even tyre wear expense.

And regards gobstopper travelling at speed not to effect. That’s not quite accurate. It participates in many handling circuit events where it sits in Q and then does handling event where close corner would lead to high charge temps. If they felt cold air feed was needed it would be on it.

But makes my point in agreement to wat you have said above as such. Once your moving heat disperses and you don’t actually have heat you would think when you pop bonnet when idling etc..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGlBCvM1wRU&feature=related
 
Dave, to me, having a resonator left under wing and thinking it will act as a cold feed for an induction kit is like having a jam jar there and hoping for the best,
Resonator only works imo because it is apart of a sealed system that has vacum to suck air from the outside, take the airbox out of the equation and you have an unsealed, broken system that will have no vacum to suck air through resonator, and then you are depending on air to force itself up the intake pipes from speed, fill the resonator box and magically jump onto a huge surface area in a huge engine bay, and then if you take the driving involved in course, point to points where on off throttle, low speeds are involved, then you havent even got much force to push the air anyway, vacum system would definitly be a better set up.

I dont think there is much point in talking about the Gob stopper or any similar car, Olly Clarke could have that induction cone mounted in his glove box and it would have no ill effects on that car, think of the fuel he is using, remember Andy F ran with no Intercooler at all because he used 100% methanol for a while on his race car, and then the big thing the FMIC,
If you are using a FMIC, well then it doesnt really matter what induction kit you use, where its placed, or where it gets its air from, the fmic will be able to control the temps anyway, of course the colder the better, but with FMIC it is not a real problem.
However, anyone using standar topmounts, well they are definitly without a doubt better and safer to use the standard airbox setup, with standard or uprated panel filter, they can remove the resonator to get small bit more noise, and still be able to suck cooler air from outside the engine bay.
Imho, the likes of homemade cold air feeds, homemade shields etc etc are only good for one thing, and thats getting you some time away from the woman, cause i dont think they do much more really
 
[quote author=KENC link=topic=25058.msg296815#msg296815 date=1279391876]
Dave, to me, having a resonator left under wing and thinking it will act as a cold feed for an induction kit is like having a jam jar there and hoping for the best,
Resonator only works imo because it is apart of a sealed system that has vacum to suck air from the outside, take the airbox out of the equation and you have an unsealed, broken system that will have no vacum to suck air through resonator, and then you are depending on air to force itself up the intake pipes from speed, fill the resonator box and magically jump onto a huge surface area in a huge engine bay, and then if you take the driving involved in course, point to points where on off throttle, low speeds are involved, then you havent even got much force to push the air anyway, vacum system would definitly be a better set up.

I dont think there is much point in talking about the Gob stopper or any similar car, Olly Clarke could have that induction cone mounted in his glove box and it would have no ill effects on that car, think of the fuel he is using, remember Andy F ran with no Intercooler at all because he used 100% methanol for a while on his race car, and then the big thing the FMIC,
If you are using a FMIC, well then it doesnt really matter what induction kit you use, where its placed, or where it gets its air from, the fmic will be able to control the temps anyway, of course the colder the better, but with FMIC it is not a real problem.
However, anyone using standar topmounts, well they are definitly without a doubt better and safer to use the standard airbox setup, with standard or uprated panel filter, they can remove the resonator to get small bit more noise, and still be able to suck cooler air from outside the engine bay.
Imho, the likes of homemade cold air feeds, homemade shields etc etc are only good for one thing, and thats getting you some time away from the woman, cause i dont think they do much more really
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Have to say I totally agree with you Ken. I replaced the resonator in my WRX with a GP Moto intake elbow. I also uprated the panel filter to a K&N. Unfortunately because of the 3 inch straight through exhaust system I was using I couldn't hear any difference but when Andy Forrest mapped my car he said he was impressed by the intake airflow and said these minor mods were good cost effective mods.

As regards the Gobstopper, well its without a doubt a technical tour deforce but its no WRC. The WRC is the pinnacle of engineering and they all run with an airbox (ie cold air feed). This is because unlike the Gobstopper they have to be able to sustain stage after stage of high and low speed bends all day long. The Gobstopper only does short blasts such as 1/4 miles and, short handling courses. If Ollie Clarke decided to enter a rally, I'd be surprised if, of all the things he didn't change, the open engine bay cone filter induction wasn't one of them. Road cars have to be capable of sustained high and low speed and there's no doubt poor quality induction kits have killed a lot of MAF's in their time. A good quality induction kit like the STI trumpet K&N 57i cone will not damage the MAF but a heavily oiled one following being cleaned will. Its better to just replace the cone every 30,000 miles. They're not expensive and you'll avoid the risk of ruining the maf from over oiling.

Frawls
 
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