Going to look at a B4

F

FozzieSTB

Sunday Drivers
Lads,

I know this has probably been covered before but I'm still strugling with it - I googled the crap out of it and have vreted several VIN lists but....
I'm going to go have a gander at a B4 in about an hour but I'm looking for some advice first.
I want to be able to read the VIN so that I know what I'm looking at - so far I've figured out that I should be looking at :
BE5(C/D)4(8/9)D - which would be a 2001 - 2003 rev C/D legacy saloon, 4 door, 2l AWD, turbo.
Now the bit that confuses me is the trim or spec level...
What is the VIN for an RSK? how do I tell them apart? except by looking, ?
Is there massive difference between RSK and standard B4 turbo, what about the suspension?

Any help lads would be appreciated....
 
B4-RSK broken down stands for "Boxer 4wd Rally Sport Kompressor" All B4's are RSK's. The main trim differences are cloth interior versus half leather versus full leather-half is my favourite. On the exterior you may or may not have the factory option bumper extension on the front,all cars have skirts-ive seen 3 different kinds,and some cars will have rear bumper corner spats-again there are a few different types of spats. Desirable upgrades are 4pot brakes,aftermarket front grille(original is gank however some cars came with an RFRB grille which is marginally better).Standard mcintosh head units can be tempremental-I'd personally rather an aftermarket unit.Beware missing interior trim-not easy to find.Service history is vital as is a car thats been run on decent fuel. Any other questions call me at 087 6854341
 
Brilliant stuff - I was beginning to come to that opinion that all turbo b4 are RSK but the trim is the difference.
What about the suspension - I know the Bilstein's have special suspension or are that all good? - Might bell you in about 30 mis if OK.
So it's really down to body kits and ride height? is that it?
Any engine performance issues?
This is a jap import just off the boat so would have to be mapped but other wise anythine else I should look out for?
 
All B4's have yellow billies as standard. Very comfortable but very expensive should anything go wrong. I've had my car 2 1/2 years now unmapped,running maxol e5 and lucas or NF booster with no issues. I service every 4-5k km with mobil 1 15w50,NGK PFR 6B plugs and a genuine oil and air filter. The 3 common problems are MAF,O2 sensor and knock sensor. MAF is 135euro from C&R subaru,knock sensor is 90euro from same. Genuine O2 sensor is itro 380euro but its actually an NTK sensor so can be got from motor factors for 90euro approx. If you know how to do a quick fault code test I'd recommend doing so,just in case a code 66 or similar awkward one comes up. You really dont want the hassle in this case. Youre welcome to call anytime :thumbsup:
 
hi guys, sorry for the hijack, I'm irish living in oz now,
I've got a B4 and I've a problem maybe you guys know whats causing it, my car will start no problem when cold, but after a drive say 5 minutes after switching off the engine it won't start for about 1 hour then it will. Any ideas ?
 
i had a similar problem in a saab i used to own would run perfectly till warm and then turn itself off and refuse to restart for bout an hour or so till it had cooled down then would start no prob never got to the route of the problem as it wasnt worth my while fixing it but the crank position sensor was suspected as the culprit
 
B4 soon said:
All B4's have yellow billies as standard. Very comfortable but very expensive should anything go wrong. I've had my car 2 1/2 years now unmapped,running maxol e5 and lucas or NF booster with no issues. I service every 4-5k km with mobil 1 15w50,NGK PFR 6B plugs and a genuine oil and air filter. The 3 common problems are MAF,O2 sensor and knock sensor. MAF is 135euro from C&R subaru,knock sensor is 90euro from same. Genuine O2 sensor is itro 380euro but its actually an NTK sensor so can be got from motor factors for 90euro approx. If you know how to do a quick fault code test I'd recommend doing so,just in case a code 66 or similar awkward one comes up. You really dont want the hassle in this case. Youre welcome to call anytime :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Hey B4 Soon, do you know the part number for the NTK oxygen sensor? Looking for the rear sensor, just been quoted 6 weeks wait and €380 for genuine part.

Cheers
 
i got an o2 sensor for the left side manifold which was e180 from motor factor which worked with a small bit of wiring needed.
i could get you part no. and make if you want?
 
Spalding said:
B4 soon said:
All B4's have yellow billies as standard. Very comfortable but very expensive should anything go wrong. I've had my car 2 1/2 years now unmapped,running maxol e5 and lucas or NF booster with no issues. I service every 4-5k km with mobil 1 15w50,NGK PFR 6B plugs and a genuine oil and air filter. The 3 common problems are MAF,O2 sensor and knock sensor. MAF is 135euro from C&R subaru,knock sensor is 90euro from same. Genuine O2 sensor is itro 380euro but its actually an NTK sensor so can be got from motor factors for 90euro approx. If you know how to do a quick fault code test I'd recommend doing so,just in case a code 66 or similar awkward one comes up. You really dont want the hassle in this case. Youre welcome to call anytime :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Hey B4 Soon, do you know the part number for the NTK oxygen sensor? Looking for the rear sensor, just been quoted 6 weeks wait and €380 for genuine part.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Genuine second hand one there. e80
 
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