Help needed for wiring a bee*r into subaru

smicklywrx

Middle Lane Hogs
Im at it since thursday and no joy, did anyone here ever put one into a car, if so tell me how. I having trouble fitting it and dunno what to connect the green wire to, ive tried all the guides it says when u google it but no joy, can anyone help me please
 
AFAIK green is for the ignition signal? As to wer your connecting it, what ecu is it? And what model (pressuming ur fitting to subaru)? Forgot just in case your unfamiliar did you cut loop for 4 or 6 clyn,
 
scoobydoo said:
AFAIK green is for the ignition signal? As to wer your connecting it, what ecu is it? And what model (pressuming ur fitting to subaru)? Forgot just in case your unfamiliar did you cut loop for 4 or 6 clyn,
its v4 3 plug ecu, yeah lad I cut the grey wire for the loop, and I tried doing it like they said on the net with using diodes and tap it into the 2 ports on ny ecu (ignition control) and used block connector onto the green, when all is connected up it doesn work and the car runs perfect, im lost now at this stage
 
Maybe the unit isn't setup right. Set the rev range.. If the car runs as normal I'd imagine its wired right?? :dontknow:
 
The problem is its not cutting the ignition, or hitting the rev range I select, thinkk flog it on as it not working right in my car, save for a few months and buy simtek if I dont get it sorted
 
Dagnut said:
how to f**k your car in 1 easy step

Step 1. Install pointless Bee* R

How has it not gone that way already with the spec in his sig and a standard wrx ecu is curious to say the least!

Sell the bee*r to a Honda head and get yourself an esl or simtek!
 
smicklywrx said:
The problem is its not cutting the ignition, or hitting the rev range I select, thinkk flog it on as it not working right in my car, save for a few months and buy simtek if I dont get it sorted
maybe its a gound problem, as it grounds signal for a cut, wer did you take the ground? and did you wire yellow to tachno pin out? Supposed to be problems with power fc ecu,
Why simtek? Heard your standard ecu is more capable than aftermarket with esl board and cheaper to?
 
smokey wrx said:
Dagnut said:
how to f**k your car in 1 easy step

Step 1. Install pointless Bee* R

How has it not gone that way already with the spec in his sig and a standard wrx ecu is curious to say the least!

Sell the bee*r to a Honda head and get yourself an esl or simtek!
As soon as the work was done on the car I brought it over to Martin Tracy and was running well but not to its potential as he built the engine, the bee*r wont work in a honda as mine is a type b and honda ones are type h, sell it to one of the boys down my way that does drifting if all else fails. :thumbsup:
 
scoobydoo said:
smicklywrx said:
The problem is its not cutting the ignition, or hitting the rev range I select, thinkk flog it on as it not working right in my car, save for a few months and buy simtek if I dont get it sorted
maybe its a gound problem, as it grounds signal for a cut, wer did you take the ground? and did you wire yellow to tachno pin out? Supposed to be problems with power fc ecu,
Why simtek? Heard your standard ecu is more capable than aftermarket with esl board and cheaper to?
Tried 3 earths just to make sure, radio, ecu and chassis. Yeah lad I have it in the tacho wire as the apexi installments for rsm/neo and Jolly Green Monsters ecu pin out, think il let it on and wait for a while, as didnt know the esl is more capable than simtek, I just want anti-lag thats all I want ha
 
Well for a daily driver id go esl but that wouldnt be my only reason, if i was you id sell the rev limiter and boost controller, with esl you would have most what simtek has, 3D boost mapping, MAFless, closed loop knock control, switchable maps, full oem diagnostic(you wont have with aftermarket ecu) and recently anti lag, launch control, flat shift etc, And it be roughly 400quid cheaper than goin with aftermarket ecu,
 
scoobydoo said:
Well for a daily driver id go esl but that wouldnt be my only reason, if i was you id sell the rev limiter and boost controller, with esl you would have most what simtek has, 3D boost mapping, MAFless, closed loop knock control, switchable maps, full oem diagnostic(you wont have with aftermarket ecu) and recently anti lag, launch control, flat shift etc, And it be roughly 400quid cheaper than goin with aftermarket ecu,
Sounds like a good road id like to go down on, cheers lad
 
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