help please...

S

sti v5

Middle Lane Hogs
anyone help??? :pray: Drove into drogheda just there and went to bank and put a small sup of e5 into car at maxol on marys street..... driving home then and was passing car and the knock on the apexi shot up and flashed the cel light, think it read 80 something.......got to the girlfriends house and didnt even make it up the drive.... car konked out and when you re-start it it wont idle right and if you try and rev it it just dies.. any thaughts???? dirty petrol perhaps????? any help greatly appreciated :thumbsup:
 
are you sure it was e5 and not e85 or diesel,its a very mastake
but could be dirty petrol or maf
 
no, definatly e5..... would the maf stop the car running properly like that... never had one gone before. cheers
 
dohcturbo said:
It could just be the maf :ponder2:
Click to expand...

It could be but i doubt it. MAF will normally take a while to go and not so sudden. Don't know if a faulty MAF will increase the knock level. The symptoms of a MAF that has completely gone are: irregular idle and stalling, chugging throughout the rev range, higher than normal fuel consumption, and a CEL (Check engine light)

If you unplug the MAF and start the car the CEL will stay on and the car will still have an irregular idle but wont stall, and it should drive ok to about 4,000rpm then start chugging.

You don't normally get "dirt" in the petrol, its water, which sits at the bottom of all petrol tanks in filling stations to trap dirt, but if they don't switch off the pump in time when it runs low you'll get water in your tank. The pump in a filling station also has a filter to stop dirt getting through.

"Knock" is another word for detination, and octane rating is the resistance to detination (knock). If you did have water in the fuel it would cause more resistance to detination. I would expect then that this would cause your knock level to rise, but I am not sure.

I hope this helps :thumbsup:
 
Yes a faulty MAF will cause a knock signal,because your air flow sensor is picking up thr wrong reading of the temprature comming in over your MAF.....

If your MAF has blown,it will hunt on revs,and your car should go into safe mode,it wont rev over 2000rpm,and yes your cell light will come on,you can check for yourself,by pluging in your green connectors under the dash...
 
Very funny it only after putn in juice do?? Are you sure it wasnt E85? or worse again Diesel?? if its a classic you have, did you check the cel flashes?
 
Scoobyke said:
Yes a faulty MAF will cause a knock signal,because your air flow sensor is picking up thr wrong reading of the temprature comming in over your MAF.....

If your MAF has blown,it will hunt on revs,and your car should go into safe mode,it wont rev over 2000rpm,and yes your cell light will come on,you can check for yourself,by pluging in your green connectors under the dash...
Click to expand...

I dont think the MAF measures air temp, there is a seperate probe beside it to measure air temp. I know the MAF measures the weight of the air by the voltage it takes to keep a piece of wire at a constant temp as the air passes by it and cools it.

When my MAF was gone the car still rev'd past 2,000rpm no problem. but it chugged all the time. When unplugged, in safe mode it would drive ok up to 4,000rpm.

Can you explain the green connectors? Never heard bout this before? Cheers mate :thumbsup:
 
Scoobymaniac said:
Scoobyke said:
Yes a faulty MAF will cause a knock signal,because your air flow sensor is picking up thr wrong reading of the temprature comming in over your MAF.....

If your MAF has blown,it will hunt on revs,and your car should go into safe mode,it wont rev over 2000rpm,and yes your cell light will come on,you can check for yourself,by pluging in your green connectors under the dash..
Click to expand...

I dont think the MAF measures air temp, there is a seperate probe beside it to measure air temp. I know the MAF measures the weight of the air by the voltage it takes to keep a piece of wire at a constant temp as the air passes by it and cools it.

When my MAF was gone the car still rev'd past 2,000rpm no problem. but it chugged all the time. When unplugged, in safe mode it would drive ok up to 4,000rpm.

Can you explain the green connectors? Never heard bout this before? Cheers mate :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUReset
 
@ 555 Scooby: Cheers mate, that only for Version 5/6 with Jecs ECU? Just goes to show ya learn somethin new every day :thumbsup:
 
mine went bang and came to a halt, it would turn, start it and try to rev it, it would go up so many rev and die.
couldnt drive it.

if you have someone hear you with a 99 leggy or impreza, swap them and see.
only take a few min. :thumbsup:
 
Actually all subarus have the geen connector plugs,etc its where you can read all the faults from....as well as reset the ECU,its not just ver5/6 with jecs ECUs.......

You were taking a chance driving your car up that high in the rev range with a blown MAF....lucky you neva melted a piston etc.... :icon_rolleyes:
 
Happened to my RA. No Idle. Turned out to be MAF. She went into safe mod. Engine light came on.
 
If you are running the power fc then yea a faulty MAF sensor will do everything you described. I had two go on me!! Expensive problem. Well as in 130e a pop but when it goes on a regular basis it gets expensive.
 
Scoobymaniac said:
dohcturbo said:
It could just be the maf :ponder2:
Click to expand...

It could be but i doubt it. MAF will normally take a while to go and not so sudden. Don't know if a faulty MAF will increase the knock level. The symptoms of a MAF that has completely gone are: irregular idle and stalling, chugging throughout the rev range, higher than normal fuel consumption, and a CEL (Check engine light)

If you unplug the MAF and start the car the CEL will stay on and the car will still have an irregular idle but wont stall, and it should drive ok to about 4,000rpm then start chugging.

You don't normally get "dirt" in the petrol, its water, which sits at the bottom of all petrol tanks in filling stations to trap dirt, but if they don't switch off the pump in time when it runs low you'll get water in your tank. The pump in a filling station also has a filter to stop dirt getting through.

"Knock" is another word for detination, and octane rating is the resistance to detination (knock). If you did have water in the fuel it would cause more resistance to detination. I would expect then that this would cause your knock level to rise, but I am not sure.

I hope this helps :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

If running an Apexi Power FC the car won't start with the MAF unplugged. It will only do that on the standard ECU. It defo causes knock when putting the foot down. I think it causes the car to run lean and so cause knock.
 
Oh and one way to be sure if its the MAF without trying another one... Turn the ignition on, set the power fc commander to read the air flow voltage and when the engine is off but the "reds" are on it should read 1040. When mine was gone it was reading a few hundred above this figure and constantly changing. If you are around dublin you can try my MAF sensor in your car and see if it fixes it...
 
when you plug the 2 green connecters together under the steering wheel they reset all the solenoids and electric untis under the bonnet as for my understanding of it :thumbsup:
 
Scoobyke said:
Actually all subarus have the geen connector plugs,etc its where you can read all the faults from....as well as reset the ECU,its not just ver5/6 with jecs ECUs.......

You were taking a chance driving your car up that high in the rev range with a blown MAF....lucky you neva melted a piston etc.... :icon_rolleyes:
Click to expand...

its the black connectors and doesn't work on my00 new age impreza or my02 legacy b4. Any using new type denso maf and ecu.
 
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