making my STI reliable advice

hey Maurice,
on the oil cooler and remote oil filter subject, the more you modify, it really is the simple things that will let you down, i know of at least 3 drift cars that have blown engines and all due to a stupid pipe comming off the oil cooler.. i would really be careful off this, maybe try and find better fittings and piping systems than standard or than whats on cheap oil coolers or remote systems.. you prob find it hard to find a place for remote filter unless your going to get rid of tmic, i reckon for track use that the tmic will provide more quick burst out of corners and be more suitable for the constant on/off throttle use on tracks and back road thrashings, i suppose what they were originaly designed and set up for... as regards the baffled sump, a guy told me that the reason type r scoobys seem to be more common to blow engine is because of the diff control and guys doing rings in them, apparently one direction is ment to pull the oil away from the oil pump and cause oil starvation on the big end bearings, i would well beleive this because if you do rings too long in the old twincam corrolas rwd in the one direction the g forces will push the oil up the wall of cylinders and in beside piston causing it to plume out oil smoke and possibly die, .. now can you imagine the effect on a flat four engine, behind the pistons when on top dead centre would be full of oil starving the bearings and oil pump, maybe even starve as far up as cams,... track use with sticky tyres like semi slicks or even just good road rubber will cause g forces as well and push oil up side of sump and out into the deck behind pistons, i reckon baffled deep sump would be a real must for lots of track time. i had tought of oil cooler for my old sti and i was going to take a leaf out of evo6 book, i was going to cut out the two spotlight holes and have oil cooler benind 1 and cold air feed behind other or like evo6, oil cooler behind 1 and square number plate over other and big fmic in middle
 
most oils are supposed to give similar levels of protection initially but the shear strength varies dramatically giving reduced protection over time. the more expensive synthetic oils are purified by a different process and will have 'ester' as one of the more protective ingredients.  in a standard classic i use only 10/40 semi as recommended but with modified engines or standard classics that are going to be driven a little more spirited i use 10/60 fully synthetic to cope with the rising engine temps. i only have the manufacturers data to say whats in the container but all the independent research reports on the many oils out there recommend strongly the importance of a 'better grade' oil for raised temperature/workload situations. fully synthetic is proven to give longer lasting protection. 
  on a more down-to-earth look at it, the valve lifters seem to get a bit louder/tappety sooner with 10/40 than with 10/60 which in my book means the oil cant be 'cushioning' as well as it should.  i change at around 3k miles to keep chances of sludge build-up very low but i dont lose sleep if it goes to 5k.   mostly its everyones own choice but there is a lot of info on the web that makes some v good reading and will help you make up your mind.
 
turning hard right in a subaru that has only around 1/4 tank of fuel is risky. similar to the oil sump prob, the fuel is forced against the wall of the tank and away from the in-tank pump causing lean mixture and very very often piston failure.
 
good info there kenn :thumbsup:, then it would have to be good with a name like that :D as for the fuel thank may try to stick to left handers then a???? :lol: :D prob a swirl pot would stop that or chambered tank???? you think????
 
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