MY99. GC8 Corrosion

CMX70

CMX70

Member
ISDC Club Member
Guys,

My 99 GC8 has failed its latest NCT, bad corrosion on both sills, just front of the rear wheels. At these locations the outriggers from the rear diff support connect to brackets that connect to the sills. This complicates things and makes the job more difficult. I previously had sill issues around the front jack points, these were repaired by AJK in Lusk but they will not touch this. Can you or any of the lads on the forum give me a recommendation on who is capable of repairing this corrosion, I'd appreciate it. The car has 176k on it and the engine is running like a clock so there are still a lot of good things to be said about the car. I have owned it from new so I'd be sad to see it condemned.

PS:
In the attached rear diff outrigger illustrated parts breakdown, the part labelled ?41331A? is the bracket that attaches to the sill locations rotted out on my car. The bolt identified as ?5? in the drawing secures the outrigger to the car body through the bushing identified as ?41326?. This thankfully is in good condition therefore the outrigger is secure.

Thanks and Regards
Ciaran
087 9675 086
 

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Dude, you'll be chasing that rust until the cows come home and even when they are home, you'll still be there.

I say part out. You got a good engine etc so buy a new shell and go from there.
 
Sheriff said:
Dude, you'll be chasing that rust until the cows come home and even when they are home, you'll still be there.

I say part out. You got a good engine etc so buy a new shell and go from there.
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It's still such a good car in every other way. It's not a daily driver and is stored in an enclosed garage during the winter months so my hope was that if the corrosion at the sills could be repaired the general corrosion situation could be contained going forward by fair weather driving. The prospect of parting out and having a small scrapyard around the house does not appeal to me.
 
Sentimental car, he's had it from new.
If it was a thing where you'd like to keep it good, just get the work done and get it undersealed and it should hold its own value then. Even my dad done that with a 96 Hiace, got the rust cut out, new bits welded in, and underseal applied.
He's that that from new also, I can get what your saying, he's had it years and wanted to keep it good like ????????
 
I am willing to cover the cost of the repair. I set aside an allocated budget for the car per year now that it is not my daily but it must be safe to drive so if ye guys could direct me to a reputable guy that would honestly evaluate the car it would help me greatly at this juncture. If he tells me the car is unsafe I will part with it. I received a mixed message from the folks in Lusk, he would not take on with the repair for a customer but if it was his own car he would do it for himself:dontknow:
 
CMX70 said:
I received a mixed message from the folks in Lusk, he would not take on with the repair for a customer but if it was his own car he would do it for himself:dontknow:
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FYI
Usually means repair shop thinks it is feasible to repair, but will take too many hours to make it viable for the customer... and rather than get into justifying why you need so many hours to do it (most lay people do not understand the amount of work and hours required to fix it right)... or the customer (not saying you would do this, but many customers might) trying to get them to take on the work, but do a "cheaper" job... which then leaves a repair place with the two unhappy choices of either doing it right, but losing money (or making sweet feck all per hour)... or doing a poor job which said customer would be soon back to argue over when it gets bad again... so... easier to just say you won't take it on. Been there plenty of times myself, when I used to be into damage repairs and body shop stuff.
 
I you need a good body shop who will do a decent repair . Fortunately we?re behind the Uk in rust repairs so ain?t that many lads doing rust repairs. But a good body shop that do welding will be well capable of doing it . You could also get them panel from a good car and have them welded in which would make the job a lot eaiser .
unfortunately I don?t have anyone to recommend. But it would be a shame to scrap it if the rest is fairly solid
 
I remember Zheiko doing so repair to his bug at the time l wonder if he mention who did it as he is not on here anymore :ponder:
 
Reactivewelding.com

Have a look at there website they are based in Dublin. Never got any work done with them. Maybe some of the lads on here may of heard of them. They should be well capable of sorting your car. Comes down to what you are willing to spend on it. No harm spending a few pound on it rather than parting it out and having nothing.
 
Your best bet is to have 2 cuts from a donor car.

The problem is you don?t really know how bad things are untill you go and start cutting out bits or start digging around. A classic car restorer would be worth a try
 
I know of one guy in Limerick that does fantastic work on old retro restoration projects, has done mini and Morris minor and the likes, top class work, but would be a ball ache for you to get the car down to him
 
Eoinmack said:
I know of one guy in Limerick that does fantastic work on old retro restoration projects, has done mini and Morris minor and the likes, top class work, but would be a ball ache for you to get the car down to him
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I would be willing to run the gauntlet and bring the car over there for him to have a look at it, maybe you could message me with the details. I have been contacted by a guy from Limerick, it may be the same fella.
 
Guys, Thanks for all the contributions, plenty for me to think about. Appreciate it.
 
Sheriff said:
Dude, you'll be chasing that rust until the cows come home and even when they are home, you'll still be there.I say part out. You got a good engine etc so buy a new shell and go from there.
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110% this by the looks of pics you included.Either find a super clean shell and transfer all over. A non turbo be fine. No need to scrap. But a lot of work ahead of you.

Or strip to bare shell and repair anything required. But chasing bit by bit is not a good idea.
 
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davelegacy said:
110% this by the looks of pics you included.Either find a super clean shell and transfer all over. A non turbo be fine. No need to scrap. But a lot of work ahead of you.

Or strip to bare shell and repair anything required. But chasing bit by bit is not a good idea.
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Dave, I heed your warning but I don't have the means, time or talent to rebuild the car from a shell. I am hoping fair weather driving and garaged storage during the winter months will slow down the corrosion growth and prolong the life of the car in my care. The car does now need a proper deep dive inspection, if the subframe is halfway down the same corrosion path as the sills then yes the car is done as far as I would be concerned.
 
Hello, i looked into a garage a while back lyons garage in milltown malbay they seem to do good work chance sending them a few pics.
 
kerry sti said:
Hello, i looked into a garage a while back lyons garage in milltown malbay they seem to do good work chance sending them a few pics.
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Lyons are very good at restorations, I'm originally from here and they do great work, not usually on Subaru's generally older stuff but no harm getting a price , probably wont be cheap though,

Best of luck with it????
 
I?d say the question is how much are you willing to through at this to repair, I?m wondering are you going to see much change out of 1k for fixing this correctly
 
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