poor running wrx

S

shanel

Sunday Drivers
to start of im not sure if im in the correct section??

i have a 95 wrx impreza i just bought off a mate who was stuck for cash to pay for flights to oz, when taking off from a stand still it moves off ok at the start but then shudders on boost seems to lose all power for a sec or two and pulls away hard again, if driving along at 45-50mph in 4th and try accelerate it judders again feels nearly like a maf but im looking for advice on here first

thanks for the help
 
Your car has 4 seperate coil packs attached to each plug,pull them off and have a good look at them for cracks etc,had the same problem before
on my old car,same symptoms and all.New plugs cured it. :thumbsup:
 
not clutch judder no, im doubtful its coil packs because it happens at low revs mid to high load and power dips off then further up the revs and comes in again with a bang! ill get plugs in the morning stick them in see how it feels then god only knows how long there in!!
 
Hello Shane,

As the lads have said above: Coil packs, leads or plugs should be your first point of call :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Michael
 
right guys i replaced the plugs oil, filter, air filter this morning drove car still the same so i met denis ferry at the autofactors and went to his garage and got a second hand air flow meter but the car wasnt idleing properly with it so took it out again without driving the car, denis did say that it could be the knock sensor aswell but im dropping the car upto him i think during the week to find out what the story is real pain driving it coming into roundabout especially because 3rd would do and have to drop to 2nd and times give it a rev to in a way red it out a bit first
 
just figured out how to check the diagnostic engine light flashing and its coming up with fault number 23 which is maf and 32 which is a/f sensor number 1 system what is this ive no clue i want to get on the bal and get the car sorted as this bad running is going to be the end of me and the subaru relationship very quickly!!!
 
Well it would have been the same with any car you would buy mate. Did your mate have much service history with it? Did he have an induction kit in it? If so which one? Well the a/f sensor it won't cost ya much and a MAF could be picked up for f**k all from a car been broke. Did he/her mention which modifications it had on it?

This will give us a better idea of the parts on the car. Hope I can give ya a hand when ya reply :thumbsup:
 
car has a dump valve with no brand on it which ill be changing back to standard as sonn as i get a new rubber pipe for between airbox and turbo as mine is cracked and broke were standard unit fitted in, it has no service history as he didnt have it for 2months when i went to service it there wasnt a filter in the airbox even, it has a 3inch exhaust from end of downpipe back its got jasma plates on it but no brand that i can see, other than that i can only see a set of olhins shocks and springs and its standard enough after that!!
 
hi shanel

I dont know if this will help but hope it does.
I had a problem with my B4 it had a kind of shuddering feeling on boost, its like as if its loosing boost and then catching it again within split seconds. felt like jerking your car by stepping on the go fast pedel and letting off.
My problem was a vacuum leak on my intercooler on the pipe coming from the turbo. i noticed this as i had little marks of oil coming out of where it was loose. check all your vacuum hoses and pipes 1st id say. but i could be wrong..

hope that helps ya.

cheers.
 
im seriously concidering selling up again with price of super unleaded up at 1.62.9 a litre and 120miles to a tank driving like a saint
 
was working on car last night and found that the pins for the lambda sensor were rusted with a bit of time and wd40 i got them nicely cleaned up and that has cured that fault..

now i got a loan of a maf and tried it car was going really bad so got a loan of yet another havent drove the car today yet but it is still throwing up the maf fault

anyone with any ideas?? also if you can let me no were ecu is and maybe a wiring diagram would be deadly job
 
Disconnect your battery while fitting the MAF,leave it for bout 10mins or so so that the ecu can reset itself,the ecu is on the passenger side footwell, :thumbsup:
 
at the car again tonight for a while removed the dump valve, and went to check the power and earth at the maf were there and ok which they are but found a pin pushed back so refitted all to car again pushed in the pins with a fine screwdriver removed battery lead and had a cuppa then refitted and fired up the car, took the car to the shop and drove perfect from cold no issues whatsoever, driving home had one or two slight spultters and grand again then ill check for codes in the morning again at work but so far so good
 
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