Tech guide · Suspension
Subaru Impreza wheel alignment guide
Potholes, kerbs, worn bushes and lowered suspension all knock an Impreza’s wheel alignment out. The result is a car that pulls, wanders or follows ruts, a steering wheel that sits off-centre, and tyres that wear out on one edge long before the tread is gone. This guide explains what the settings mean, what you can and cannot adjust on each generation, and what to ask for at the alignment centre.
At a glance
Four-wheel alignment
Always ask for all four wheels, not just front tracking: rear toe controls stability.
Read your tyres
Inside-edge wear usually means too much negative camber or toe-out.
Get the printout
Ask for the before and after sheet with the factory range for your car.
The three settings
| Setting | What it is | What it does to the car |
|---|---|---|
| Camber | How far the top of the wheel leans in (negative) or out (positive), seen from the front | More negative camber gives more grip in corners but wears the inside edge of the tyre on the road |
| Caster | How far the steering axis leans back, seen from the side | More caster gives better straight-line stability and a steering wheel that self-centres; it also adds a little steering weight |
| Toe | Whether the fronts of the wheels point slightly in (toe-in) or out (toe-out), seen from above | The biggest cause of fast, uneven tyre wear. Small changes have a big effect on stability and turn-in |
Why it matters more on a Subaru
- Four-wheel drive means all four tyres are driven. Uneven wear front-to-rear or side-to-side changes the rolling size of each tyre and strains the centre differential.
- Rear toe matters: it controls how stable the back of the car feels at speed and under braking. Always ask for a four-wheel alignment, not just “tracking” at the front.
- Lowered cars gain negative camber and change toe as the ride height drops. Any spring, coilover or arm change needs an alignment straight after.
What you can adjust
| Setting | Standard car | With aftermarket parts |
|---|---|---|
| Front toe | Yes: at the track rod ends | – |
| Front camber | A small amount on most models, using the strut-to-hub bolts (around 1°) | Camber bolts or adjustable top mounts give more range |
| Caster | Not adjustable; it can only be equalised side to side | Caster bushes in the front lower arms add caster |
| Rear toe | Yes: eccentric bolts on the rear lateral links | – |
| Rear camber | Very limited or none | Adjustable rear links or camber bolts |
If a garage says your camber or caster “can’t be adjusted”, that is often true on a standard car. It does not mean the settings are fine: a bent arm, a tired bush or an accident-damaged hub will show up as a figure outside the factory range.
Read your tyres
| What you see | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Inside edge worn, rest of the tyre fine | Too much negative camber, or toe-out (common on lowered cars) |
| Outside edge worn | Toe-in, or hard cornering on under-inflated tyres |
| A saw-tooth, feathered feel across the tread | Incorrect toe |
| Scalloped dips round the tyre (cupping) | Worn dampers or wheel balance, not alignment alone |
| Both edges worn, centre fine | Running under-inflated |
Typical settings people run
These are common starting points from the Subaru community, not factory figures. Your alignment centre has the factory range for your exact model on its machine.
| Use | Front camber | Rear camber | Toe |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road car, standard height | Factory setting | Factory setting | Factory setting |
| Fast road, lowered | About −1.0° to −1.5° | About −1.0° to −1.3° | Front close to zero; slight rear toe-in |
| Track days | About −2.0° to −2.5° | About −1.8° to −2.2° | Front zero to very slight toe-out; rear near zero to slight toe-in |
More camber means more grip on track but faster inside-edge wear on the road. If the car is mostly a daily driver, stay towards the milder end.
When to get it checked
- After a big pothole or kerb hit, especially if the steering wheel is now off-centre
- After any suspension or steering work: track rod ends, arms, bushes, springs or coilovers
- When you fit new tyres, so they last
- If the car pulls, wanders, or the tyres are wearing unevenly
- Once a year on a car that is driven hard
At the alignment centre
- Ask for a four-wheel alignment on a laser or camera rig.
- Ask for the before and after printout: it shows the factory range and your car’s figures, so you can see what was out.
- Check the tyre pressures and look for worn track rod ends or bushes first: aligning a car with worn parts is wasted money.
- If you want non-standard settings, bring the numbers written down, and say if the car is lowered or has aftermarket arms.
- Drive it straight away: the steering wheel should be straight and the car should not pull.
More guides
Impreza wheel fitment guide
Impreza brake disc sizes by model
Buying a used WRX or STI
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